Damn it’s cold.

August 25, 2026

It’s been a couple days since I’ve written and I think we left off at Watson Lake. I was driving away when I remembered what it was known for – the SignPost Forest. It contains something like 100,000 signs that travelers have left. It was started in 1942 by an Illinois Army guy who was working on the highway, and was designated a Yukon  Historic site in 2013. Kinda neat, look it up. I was so disappointed by how dirty the town was that I didn’t bother to stop again to go into the forest. I’m not much of a “tourist” traveler, anyway. I’d much rather hang out somewhere quiet than have to deal with crowds of people at the popular spots.

I went through seemingly never-ending mountains again. Everything is so ridiculously beautiful. I feel like every five minutes I’m oohing or aahing at a lake or river.

The wildflowers are wonderful, and I would like to do this drive in spring sometime. Lupine is everywhere – I think that might be Alaska’s state flower? And wild roses, I think I saw an Alberta license plate with that on it. Also yarrow, which was unexpected. I’ve never loved yarrow, but it is blooming everywhere like a weed and is very pretty. For all the folks in Ohio who complain about the deer – lupine and yarrow survive with grazers like bear, moose, caribou, bison. I also saw a great planting of the really prickly perennial with the spiky ball flowers – maybe sea holly? I’ve never seen anyone with that in their garden in Ohio (although everyone sells it), but again, no one wants to eat it. 

Dragonflies seem to be everywhere, and they are enormous. Same with the ravens – they’ve been a constant since Montana and are the size of small dogs. 

Canada does a great job of putting informational signs in all of the rest stops and roadside pull-offs. History of the highway, famous people the towns are named after, local native tribes, animal species. My favorite one was a black and white photo of a couple men in suit and tie and hat (mud covered), leaning on a car (mud covered) that wasn’t much more advanced than a Model T. The car tires were on huge wood planks and a trickling brook and mud was the foundation. I don’t remember their names, but they were scouting out a path for the Alaska Highway and using the wood planks to make tracks for the car. Can you imagine being that kind of explorer? It’s crazy enough driving on already-paved roads. 

Speaking of, I’ve hit the frost heave section of the highway. It’s kind of fun, but slow going. The heaves are like giant mounds in the road, but they run pretty evenly across the entire road so as long as you go slow it’s no big deal. Not like potholes. But I can’t seem to remember to drive slow. I start daydreaming while staring at mountains and trees and all of a sudden I’m going 70 (mph, not kph) and the van drops out from below me and all the stuff on my shelves bounces and Lucy angrily headbutts me and my seat becomes a trampoline. And then I drive slow for about 45 seconds until I start daydreaming again. 

It’s not hard to daydream; very few cars are around now, and most are heading south. I stopped at the Caribou RV campground last night and the guy told me that school started this week and if I had shown up three days earlier I wouldn’t have gotten a space. This campground was pretty odd. The proprietors were (maybe) German, and the big sign on the highway boasted that they can greet you in five different languages. A French chef and an Austrian chef were there working and the restaurant had wine tasting menus and much fancier stuff than I’d imagine in a camp. An outdoor bar had TVs, and at one point Lucy and I walked by and a bunch of people were playing bingo. 

Possibly I could have been social, but this was the first time in over two weeks that I got wifi inside my van, and all I could do was catch up on crossword puzzles and veg out with Netflix. I didn’t do laundry, didn’t clean the van, just laid in bed and watched reruns of Community. Lucy refused to get out of bed so I didn’t either. It felt good to do nothing productive for an evening.

They also had a weird bathroom system, unlike any I’ve seen before. Four bathrooms in a building, and each had a toilet, sink, and shower. Which sounds good at first, but if four people were showering or peeing, I couldn’t brush my teeth in a sink. I feel like it would be a disaster when the camp was full. They had some pit toilets, but who would use those if you could help it?

There was also a motorcycle camp, and each space had a hard-sided tent with a bed and a big covered porch so people could work on their bikes under shelter. I don’t think I’ve gone 10 minutes during the entire Canadian portion of this trip without seeing a motorcycle on the road. I’m surprised how many there are, strapped with giant bags of gear, spare tires, gas cans, tents, and wow does it look like hard work. 

While I had internet I was able to look a couple things up, because I had a feeling that the tiny Yukon towns were crushing gas prices everywhere else. So here it is:

1 liter = .264172 gal or 1 gal = 3.78541 liter

1 usd = 1.38 cad

So the highest I paid for gas was $2.75cad/liter. Which is $1.99usd/liter, multiplied by 3.78541 gives you…

$10.40/gallon usd oh my god.

I do not want to see my credit card bill this month. 

Now that we’re nearing our destination (meaning hundreds of miles, not thousands), I’m gonna start slowing down. I pulled into another campground for tonight, very quiet and nestled up to a river. Lake Creek campground, one of the province-run sites. These are beautiful sites with lots of nature and space, quiet and cheap ($20cad). This one has giant piles of free firewood in little shelters, and zero trash on the ground. The downside is no running water, laundry, shower, but I much prefer these. Also no campground host, so if people are assholes you have no one to go to. But these provincial sites are everywhere, either parks or camps or hiking trails. Canadians must really love their camping. 

Right as I took this photo of the empty campground, Lucy grabbed a giant mouthful of something disgusting. I should have printed out ID photos for large animal poop, it’s everywhere. So gross. She is no longer allowed to lick me.

Lucy, as you may know, is a Plott hound. Brought from Germany to the US by a guy named Plott to hunt bears, also the state dog of North Carolina. She is in heaven with all these new animal smells, as she’s a type of scent hound. She might make me stand in one spot for five minutes so she can analyze an area. I’m hoping that this dog, who is scared of plastic bags, will remember her heritage and stand up to a bear if we ever come across one. But I bought bear spray, just in case.

I finally figured out a sign that had been puzzling me at the provincial sites. I don’t remember the exact wording, but it means that you cannot smoke pot in the campground – unless you have paid for a campsite. Then it’s fine. 

When I pulled in here I was alone. I drove through the entire place (which took 30 minutes to walk around for an idea of the size – fairly big), and not a single other person. But I don’t expect that to last, everyone has to stop somewhere for the night. 

It’s nice that I missed tourist season, but not nice that it’s getting pretty freaking cold. I haven’t gone digging in my van for long pants, but I’ll be forced to do that in a couple days. For now I’m wearing a sweatshirt and a jacket, wool socks, boots, and shorts. 

I’ve started recognizing the people traveling in the same direction as me. One woman and I are like the tortoise and the hare. I drive crazy fast, but not for long. She drives slow, but longer time. We generally end up near each other every night, or I pass her sometime during the day, or see each other at a gas station. She camped next to me one night, and her RV was very distinctive. It had a black front with a boxy white body. And Swiss plates. Now I see her everywhere. Which is weird, in a way. I have certain pieces of clothing that are just super comfortable to drive in. And yes, sometimes I wear things longer than maybe I should. But I’m clean, so I don’t care. Anyway, one day I thought ‘this woman has seen me wearing the same skort three days in a row’ and I got very self-conscious. Chances are she didn’t notice.

I haven’t seen any new animals since my last post, except a furry brown squirrel-like rodent with a short tail that runs across roads as soon as I get close to them. Death-wish rats. And I found my rivet gun and fixed my shelf. Everything else is holding steady, even after catching air.

Bison are probably my favorite land-based animal, and I hope I see more. One pull-off had a few signs about bison, and how they were nearly extinct but are starting to come back. There are two types: Wood bison and Plains bison. And the Plains bison have the scientific name: Bison bison bison. That just seems lazy.

I should get to Tok tomorrow, my first Alaskan stop. I’ve heard a bit about a wildfire there, the Mukluk fire, but I don’t know what the current situation is. Tok is a town that you have to go through in most cases, both into and out of Alaska. With so many travelers leaving Alaska, I imagine it’ll be sorted when I get there. At least the roads near the highway. Lots of rain in the forecast for the next week, so I’ll see tonight, I guess.

As a side note, I absolutely love listening to Canadian radio when I can get a signal. Especially the news shows right now, all of which talk so much shit about our pedophile president. When Canadians decide not to be friendly, they do a good job. 

Wildlife seen:

caribou

ptarmigan

bison

moose

black bear

roadkill bison

rocky mountain sheep

eagle

osprey

mule deer

garter snake

traffic bear

fox

roadkill moose

pileated woodpecker

black-billed magpie 

raven

Books read:

Scythe – Neal Shusterman

Thunderhead – Neal Shusterman

The Toll – Neal Shusterman

Gleanings – Neal Shusterman

Dungeon Crawler Carl – Matt Dinniman (goddammit, Donut)

The Story of Little Red

Lucy at Bay of Fundy

My van’s name is Little Red, and she’s a Ram Promaster. I haven’t written a thing since my car accident, so telling her story is my first attempt at getting my brain back in gear. 

Lucy and I are currently camped in the woods in Big South Fork NP at the Blue Heron campgrounds in Kentucky, close to the Tennessee border. My intention is to start my next book, which has been on my mind for a couple years now, and a change of scenery seemed like it was needed to get back to work.

In March of 2021 I was sitting at a red light near downtown Cleveland and a guy (on his phone) smashed into the back of my pickup truck. He didn’t even attempt to brake, resulting in two demolished vehicles, years of doctors visits (for me), and stranding me in Ohio. That’s all I’ll say about the accident, since anyone who knows me already knows the details. The worst part for me has been the inability to do anything creative with my brain, being fogged from so much medication.

I only had a few weeks of rental car insurance and was under pressure to buy a vehicle, so I got a Subaru Forester, thinking it could be a nice adventure car. The main problem was how low it was to the ground, and every time someone got too close behind me I had panic attacks and had to pull over. Lucy and I had spent most of the covid time driving around the country in my pickup, and I wanted to continue by visiting my sister in New Orleans. I made it just over the Ohio/Kentucky border when I had to stop and turn around. Driving had become far too stressful. I hadn’t been working due to chronic headaches, so I went back to Cleveland and got a part-time job at a grocery store that was an easy 3-minute drive. And that was the rut I got stuck in for far too long. 

I’m sure everyone saw pics and videos of people working remotely from vans and RVs during covid, and that’s where the idea of Little Red came from. If I was too low to the ground for comfort, I’d get a giant van. If I was super stressed from driving, I’d throw a bed in the back so I could pull over and relax whenever I needed to. I traded out the Subaru and bought a used, empty cargo van, and then it started to snowball. Why not install a refrigerator so I don’t have to keep stopping for food and ice? And how will I power that refrigerator? Let’s add some solar panels and lithium batteries. Since I’m adding power, I’ll get a microwave for cooking. Now I need to raise the bed off the floor and build cabinets for food storage, and give Lucy a place to sleep. A sink for washing dishes, and shelves for clothes and books and all the day-to-day necessities.

Insulation

Besides making bird houses, I have never built anything. I searched Youtube to see how other people had designed their mobile living spaces, and with a table saw and cordless drill, I got to work. 


I won’t say that the outcome will win any design or workmanship awards, but it gets the job done. I started with insulation, which was probably the most time-consuming part of the project. And in retrospect, I wish I had done a bit more. But with the addition of a floor and a ceiling, I wanted to be able to stand up straight in the back, so I kept it minimal. The only real mishap was the shelving above the foot of the bed, which came crashing down on an unexpected and very deep pothole on a trip to New Orleans (which I completed, unlike the last attempt). Thankfully, it only crashed on top of the bed, but I had to spend the next couple weeks sleeping with shelves occupying the space where my feet should have been. My microwave became load-bearing, since my cooking shelf sagged just enough in the middle to rest on top of it. When I got back to Cleveland, I reinstalled the shelf and added support brackets to everything, just in case. 


I spent about a year building, with short trips to test everything out and get used to driving again. Lucy and I have recently been to all the Great Lakes, Canada, and oceans on both sides of the country, with visits to family and friends along the way. I’ve had trouble with the solar, and had to spend a day at a rest area in North Dakota taking it all apart to find the problem (which means taking apart a section of the bed since I thought I’d be clever and stash the inverter and batteries in an out-of-the-way spot). 
The solar has been the biggest issue since it has so many moving parts. After an initial successful installation with my friend Craig, I found myself without power on several occasions during trips, and at least now I can service it blindfolded. Considering I almost burned down the van a couple times when starting out, that’s impressive to me. I added an extra inverter powered by the cigarette lighter to charge the batteries after some time in Portland with very little sun. When I first installed the solar panels on top of the roof I didn’t drive on the highway for weeks for fear they’d fly off, and now I’m finally confident that I’m not as bad at building things as I thought. 

Solar panels

Little Red isn’t finished, though. Project burnout and lack of extra money have delayed the final two items I want to install – a ceiling vent fan and a side window in the sliding door. The window should be easy enough, and cutting a giant hole in the van roof doesn’t scare me (after ripping out my beautiful wood ceiling). Looking through the schematics of wiring the fan, it somehow seems more complicated than the entire solar system, so maybe when I’m stuck inside this winter I’ll give it a go. 

Messy travel van

That’s the condensed version of the story of Little Red. I could go into a lot more detail on the build and the side trips, but I’ve accomplished my goal of sitting and writing, and for now I’m happy.
Lucy and I are heading out now for a hike, and maybe a nap later. It’ll be a good day. I do wish we were at the ocean, maybe with some scuba diving, but that’ll have to be the next trip. 
PS – I have very little reception so I’m writing as quickly as I can – please excuse the typos for now 🙂

Laundry day

Have a great day, everyone!

Lucy and her bison friend